Borders Exploration
Group environmental project
Isla de Luna, Bolivia
- July 14th – 18th
2017
In July this
year Borders Exploration Group, a group of young people from the Scottish
Borders, travelled to Isla de Luna on Lake Titicaca to take part in an
environmental project with the Bolivian Amphibian Initiative. The aim was to
raise awareness of the fragility of the environment of the lake and to give
information to visitors about the island and its surroundings. To do this
we collected rubbish from around the island in order to create a sculpture,
hand-built a sign to accompany this and assembled information banners which had
previously planned in collaboration with Jaime at BAI. Following is our blog
which explains in detail how it all went.
acaban to Isla de Luna –
Coati Day 1 14 July 2017
By Group D
We all woke up early to get breakfast, stock up on water and get the
bags ready for the venture to Isla de la Luna (Coati). There were still a
couple of things to buy for our project so Jane headed out to the shops in
Copacabana with Jaime and Laetitia to get empty sacks, chicken wire and paint.
When the minibuses arrived we hastily moved all of the bags on to the
top.
A dedicated band of people stayed behind to wait for another taxi
to make sure the whole group's water supply arrived safely to our destination.
We were very laden!
On our travels we witnessed breath-taking scenery despite the bumpy ride
due to the challenging terrain.
After following the coast a little way, past fish farms with restaurants
on wooden legs, we drove up and over the hills. Finally we rounded a corner to
be greeted by the sight of Luna Island in its entirety.
At Tejepa we were met by two launches. After some scurrying around to
find life jackets we were transported across the short stretch of water to this
stunning island.
It took a while to unload everything off the boats as along with our
personal belongings we were bringing several large bags full of wet suits,
buoyancy aids and masks for the community on Coati. These had been
generously donated by
different companies in the UK, James at www.foxlake.co.uk/ ; Mick at www.reefersandwreckers.com ; www.aqualung.com/uk ;
longstanding BEG member Jim McPherson and Leanne Gillie and is for the people on Coati to use -with
the help BAI - to give tourists visiting Luna a chance to swim in the
lake and see the wildlife, particularly the endangered Fresh water Titicaca
frog (Telmatobius coleus)in its natural habitat.
We were warmly welcomed by the local community who had prepared a
traditional lunch for us. As well as trout from the lake, sweetcorn, fava beans
(like a broad bean) and other tasty food we were offered quinoa and barley
juice that none of us has tasted before.
Later, after we’d been introduced to our homestays and found where we
were sleeping, we climbed the island peak of the island. With the island at
3800m a further 100m to the top was quite slow going but well worth the effort!
The top was a good place to discuss the aims and objectives of our first
full day on the island. Jaime had split the island into four sections and
standing at centre of the quadrant, he explained where we would start clearing
the
litter from tomorrow.
The island is only small – total coastline 6 km –so it was decided that
a morning was enough to clear the shoreline and in the afternoon we could
attack the hill.
Afterwards, we hiked to the North West side of the island to watch the
mesmerising sunset behind Isla del Sol before heading down to our accommodation
to put on warm clothes before dinner.
Dinner was a delicious vegetable soup thickened with semolina and with
chips added. After we were given flasks of hot water and different verbs to add
- coco leaves rosemary, a citron one and another. All exhausted, we headed to
bed soon after dinner but couldn't help gazing at the beautiful starry sky.
Isla de
Luna – Coati Day 2 15 July 2017
By John Little
It was a 7.45
start for breakfast at 8.00 in the school. It was rolls, butter, jam and banana
to eat with a cup of coca mate (tea). The plan for the day was to clean litter
from all around the shoreline.
The four groups
set off in different directions to the furthest points east and west. Our
group, consisting of Dav, Mark, Emma, Caitlyn, Lucy, Jane B and had the
north-east quadrant.
We spent the
morning scouring the coast and easily filled three big bags of rubbish by 12
am.
Now on the
north side, we had to climb up and over the hill past the Quencha / Inca ruins
with our rubbish to get back to the community and lunch!
Lunch was a
delicious soup and fresh fruit.
The ladies in
the community had a rota system for cooking and each day different families
prepared the food in their homes and then came to the school to cook it
After that we
received a demonstration from the Bolivian Amphibian Initiative team -Jaime,
Riccardo, Gabriel and Laetitia – showing us how they operate on a day-to-day
basis including how they keep count of the population, size and weight of the
Lake Titicaca water frogs.
Jaime and
Gabriel, who were in the water in full wet suit gear, collected samples of
frogs and brought them in plastic bags to the shore.
I got to hold a
bag with the endangered Telmatobius
coleus and see it up close. Having never seen one of these water frogs before,
it was an amazing experience.
After
this it was back to work clearing the remainder of the shoreline and then
moving up onto the hillside. Some groups had finished the waterfront already
but we still had a small section to do so Jane B and me headed back over to the
north side.
We filled a bag in no time -not giving much thought to the weight
–and then headed straight up between the terraces hoping to meet the rest of
our group at the top. It was a struggle, particularly as we were at 3,800
metres and not yet used to the altitude. However, by the end of the day we had
a huge mound of rubbish and it was a satisfying result seeing how much
difference we had made.
A
few of us couldn’t resist going back up the hill for another sunset and we were
accompanied by ‘Policía’, one of the little dogs on the island that appeared and
followed us regularly to different parts of the island.
For
tea we had a tasty thick broth, and then enjoyed the evening with our group and
some of the community around a huge campfire. The stars were fantastic, there
were so many and they were so visible in the clear sky so it was great just to
lie back and stare up at them next to the warmth from the fire.
Isla de Luna –
Coati
Day 3
16 July 2017
By Jane, Zoe, Mairi & Lauren
For those of us who wanted to see the sun rise from the top of the hill
it was a 5.45am start but this was well rewarded when the sun finally peaked
out between the 6000+ metre peaks of Ilampu and Janco Uma
- well worth the wait!
A quick descent and then it was breakfast time and all together to divvy
up the jobs for the day; sculpture building or banner preparation and
assembling all being done on the North side of the island where the Inca ruins
were and the jetties for the boats coming on day trips from the mainland.
Unfortunately, one of our group - Lucy -had tripped and injured her
ankle the day before so it was decided she would need to go to the mainland for
an x-ray along with leaders David, Pam and Davin our expedition doctor. A
couple of other ill people were ill too so our numbers were a bit depleted as
we walked up and over the hill. However, the enthusiasm was still high even
when everyone realised they needed to carry the rubbish back over with us for
the sculpture!
Everyone chose whether they wanted to work on the sculpture or
banners
The sculpture and sign (First morning)
On the first morning we planned and designed our sculpture with huge
enthusiasm and some amazing ideas. However we soon realised our original idea
of producing an abstract frog was out with our capabilities. Not deterred, the
team then decided to construct a more simple shape; a rectangle.
We selected a good location for the sculpture to sit where it would be
seen from all three jetties but before we could put it in place, we needed to
level out the ground.
Next we produced a chicken wire frame, tied together with string and
then further secured it with wire hooks.
The sculpture also needed a sign. Jaime and
Joseph sourced some wooden planks that were lying about on the shore and
began removing nails from them to reuse.
Eilidh joined in and together they found three reasonable planks
and posts to go at the ends but as they began trying to nailing the posts to
the planks they realised that it was not going to work too well.
The banners (first morning)
Those of us who
were in the team for making the banners were tasked with putting together four
large frames to display some information banners at the tourist arrival point
on Isla de la Luna. These banners had been created prior to arriving in Bolivia
by a group of the Borders Exploration Group volunteers and Bolivian Amphibian
Initiative who used their creative and technology skills to research and
display the relevant information. They displayed information about different
aspects of the island, such as the culture, flora and fauna, wildlife
(including the endangered Lake Titicacan frog) and about the local environment.
Our first major task was to strip a selection of logs that had
been given to the project by the local community on the island. This involved
using any tools we could get our hands on (pen knives, mini axes and even plain
stones!) to take away the rough bark that covered the log. This turned out to
be quite a lengthy task, and incredibly frustrating at times when only tiny
sections of the bark peeled off bit by bit.
It wasn’t until a local showed us a very efficient way of removing large
sections all at once (whacking a stone into the bark until it all came loose-
quite simple really!) that we made any real progress. The next task was to sort
the logs into thicker and thinner logs and from here we could measure the logs
to the required lengths and mark them to be cut when the right tools were to be
delivered to the site that afternoon.
Lunch came to us today to save the time we would lose walking up and
over the hill. Around midday the first ladies arrived by boat and soon after we
were sitting eating in an idyllic spot which looked over the lake and towards
the Cordillera Real mountain range.
Once again it was tasty food – soup followed by potatoes with a
traditional peanut sauce and salad. Then we were back to work !
The sculpture and sign (afternoon)
For the sculpture we’d reached the point where the bags of rubbish
we had collected the previous day could be tipped into the frame and the top
could be sealed up.
With the sign, Eilidh and Joseph had come up with a great
idea to use natural forces to support the planks. That decided, the afternoon
was taken up with hole digging to secure the posts. As with the banners, this
was a hot and tiring task but by late afternoon the sign was in place ready for
painting the following day.
The banners (afternoon)
After lunch
Jaime arrived with a saw so we took it in turns to saw the excess length off
the logs. We then spent the rest of the afternoon split into two teams, one
digging holes in the chosen sites for the banners to be displayed and the other
watching two of the locals alongside Ricardo and Gabriel (volunteers from the
Bolivian Amphibian Initiative) putting together the first frame by first of
all; very carefully making measurements to ensure the frame was completely
linear which was a very intricate task as the smallest knock to any of the logs
meant having to go back to the beginning.
This team then
took it in turns to create grooves in the logs (one on each end for the posts
to slot together). This, at first, appeared to be a very easy and fun task as it
involved swinging heavy tools and hitting the log with lots of force, but it
ended up being incredibly physically exhausting and difficult as one volunteer
quickly found out when one slight hit too hard resulted in the entire log
splitting down the middle.
Once four of
the logs had their grooves, Gabriel and Ricardo took a couple members of this
team aside and showed them how to slot the four posts together, hammer nails in
to each corner of the rectangle and use strong wire to ensure these were very
securely attached. This was quite a hard task as the wire was very strong and
needed quite a few hands on deck to make sure it was tight enough.
The team
digging the holes for the banners also had a very physically exhausting job as
they had to measure the exact distance between the holes for the poles to stand
and use a shovel and a pickaxe to dig down through the dry and hard ground.
At 5pm we had done all we could for the day. Tired but content with our
efforts, we headed back; some round the shoreline and some over the hill.
There were a few of us who couldn’t resist stopping to watch another
awesome sunset but by dinnertime we were all in the school room ready for food.
The day had been pretty exhausting so everyone headed back to their homes soon
after dinner.
Isla de Luna –
Coati Day 4 17 July 2017
Our last full day and with the promise of a visit to the ruins in the
afternoon, we wanted to be all finished by mid-afternoon but there was still a
lot to be done. After several days walking up and over the hill some people
were feeling a bit weary but once we reached the north side everyone got
quickly stuck into the remaining tasks.
The sculpture and sign
For the sculpture we realised that we could be more creative than a
rectangle and that something more relevant would make a better impact. We liked
Laetitia’s suggestion of a tree so with the remaining chicken wire we set to
work making branches.
We wrapped some of the many large plastic bottles we’d collected in
chicken wire and attached them to the rectangle to produce a palm tree/
pineapple sculpture.
Chloe and Emma now had the Spanish translation of the message for the
sign – which we had discussed and voted on before we had even arrived on the
island. So now several people set to writing the letters neatly in pencil and
then painting them carefully on. Despite having a couple of paint brushes
fingers appeared to be the preferred method resulting in quite a lot of blue
and white fingers!
The holes team
discovered that when the first frame was finished and lifted to the first site
for erection, the two holes were too close together.
The second team
discovered they had to hammer the nails very carefully from the right angle or
it would result in a wonky nail which proved nearly impossible to remove.
Despite these minor setbacks, by the afternoon all the frames had been put
together and lifted into their positions.
The banners
The next day
both teams got straight back to work – one on digging the holes and the other
putting the frames together. Both teams faced some challenges.
The holes team discovered that when the first frame was finished and lifted to the first site for erection, the two holes were too close together.
The second team discovered they had to hammer the nails very carefully from the right angle or it would result in a wonky nail which proved nearly impossible to remove. Despite these minor setbacks, by the afternoon all the frames had been put together and lifted into their positions.
We then all had
to pull together some of the taller members of the group to help us tie the
banners on to the frames so that they sat in the centre which took lots of
to-ing and fro-ing, but once they were done was extremely satisfying to see all
the hard work had pulled off.
To top it all
off, a lovely tourist guide even stopped to praise us and let us know how
impressed she was with the information and the banners and our host Alvaro
Mamani seemed pretty pleased too!
When we had stopped for lunch it seemed unlikely that we would get
everything finished in time but everyone pulled together and it all was
completed by 3pm.
So, once we’d taken photos and cleared up and returned all the tools we
posed for a group photo in front of the final banner before heading in to look
at the Inca ruins we had been walking past each day.
Once our last
delicious dinner was all eaten, we had a farewell evening with Alvaro Mamani, head of tourism on the island; Jaime, Laetitia, Gabriel and
Riccardo, from BAI, the ladies of the community and of course all
the Borders Exploration Group team.
The projects
had helped us appreciate the beautiful Lake, the fragile environment in which
it is set as well as really encouraging us to work together as a team.
Best of all, everyone was pleased with all that had been achieved. So
there were lots of thanks from all parties, along with some slightly battered
traditional Scottish snacks and a little taste of whiskey!
Early the
following morning we would be setting off early into the mountains of the
Cordillera Real so no one was late heading to bed. But the beautiful night sky
was already full of stars and I couldn’t resist lingering outside looking for
shooting stars – and I saw one!
with the support of
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